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         I am dedicated to providing the best home inspection possible. I guarantee I am more thorough than other inspectors.  Don't accept an inspection that takes less than an hour, and they provide you a report on the spot. A typical home inspection should last about 2 hours depending on the size and condition of the home, and how many questions you have (I encourage questions)! 

        Prior to the inspection, I request the disclosure document from the realtor. Few inspectors do this. Disclosures can tell me a lot about a home including information on: subsurface sewage, water well, environmental concerns (lead paint, asbestos and radon history), prior damage and repair history of the house, alterations, and dates. I also research past permit history on the house if it's available online. For example, if the house is located in Fargo or Moorhead, I will look up all pulled permits on the property since 1992. Permit history research from the courthouse is available for any city at an additional charge. This is invaluable information! It tells me dates and repairs/improvements that have been made to the house, if done legally. This also tells me if the previous homeowner has hired professionals, or amateurs. Even fewer inspectors do this.

        For first time home buyers, the inspection will provide an excellent education on home ownership and maintenance. For the more experienced buyer, I’ll focus more on major issues and general building science. I encourage clients to attend the inspection, at least at the end for a debriefing. If you just want to come at the end, I will walk you through the home and go over my evaluation of the house and components, identifying all deficiencies and benefits of the home.

        Following the inspection, I create a report identifying each system in the house, technical information, safety issues, efficiencies, and current and future issues that could arise costing you money. The report includes photos, along with several helpful diagrams and illustrations. A digital PDF report will be emailed and posted online within 24 hours of the inspection. Hard copy binder available upon request.

        No inspector knows everything. That's why I prepare my report at my office; so I can do further research on issues, the age of appliances and HVAC equipment, current code, or find more information on any questions/items I didn't have full knowledge of.




What's Included

  • Wall covering (siding)

  • Windows

  • Doors

  • Decks

  • Balconies

  • Stoops

  • Steps

  • Porches

  • Guardrails/railings

  • Vegetation that will affect the building

  • Grading/surface drainage

  • Retaining walls

  • Driveways

  • Walkways

  • Patios

  • Vent terminals/air intakes

  • Water faucets

  • I walk roofs to inspect them. Some exceptions would be unsafe roofs, roofs not accessible with a 28′ extension ladder, snow covered, etc.
  • Roofing materials
  • Gutters and roof drainage systems - I'm a big proponent of gutters
  • Flashing
  • Skylights, chimneys, and roof penetrations
  • Foundation walls
  • Basement floor and crawl spaces
  • Floor structure
  • Roof structure
  • Wall structure
  • Walls, ceilings and floors
  • Steps, stairways, and railings
  • Countertops and a representative number of cabinets
  • Doors and windows
  • Garage vehicle doors and operators
  • Appliances by using normal primary controls - Washer/dryer, refrigerator, range, dishwasher, trash compactor
  • Water supply and distribution including all fixtures and faucets - I run various fixtures at once to test pressure
  • Drain, waste, and vent systems
  • Water heaters
  • Vent systems, flues, and chimneys
  • Main gas and water shut-off and locations
  • Sump pumps
  • If you have private well/septic, I can look up permit history and give you a general evaluation based on design/age
  • Exterior electrical components, including the service drop, service entrance conductors, cables
  • The main panel and any subpanels. I remove panel covers to inspect the circuits inside. I verify amperage rating, overcurrent protection devices, wire size, grounding, bonding, conductors for circuits,  appliances that should be on dedicated circuits and general safety items. Every ASHI inspector in Minnesota should do this as standard practice, and any home inspector who claims to follow ASHI’s Standards Of Practice should do this. I will also try to identify panel/breaker manufacturers that are historically unsafe.
  • Service grounding
  • Interior electrical components, including the majority of receptacles, switches, and lights
  • Ground fault circuit interrupters and location recommendations
  • Smoke and CO alarms are recommended when not present
  • Installed heating equipment (furnace, boilers, electric heaters)
  • Vent systems, flues, and chimneys
  • Furnace filters are inspected and clients are shown how to change the filter.
  • Distribution systems - ducts and registers
  • Heat-recovery ventilators (HRV) (ERV)
  • Central and permanently installed cooling equipment
  • AC electrical over-current protection sizing and shut-off
  • Condensate lines
  • Insulation and vapor retarders in unfinished spaces
  • I access every attic, if possible, to inspect them. If I can walk or crawl through the attic without trampling the insulation, I’ll do so to inspect the attic.
  • Ventilation of attics and foundation
  • Exhaust systems
  • Fuel-burning fireplaces, stoves, and inserts
  • Fuel-burning accessories in fireplaces
  • Chimneys and vent systems
  • Structure
  • Overhead doors and openers
  • Doors, fire-stop, stairs, walls, floor, electrical, etc.
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